316 Stainless Steel Rectangular Bar, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Annealed, 0 (Annealed) Temper, ASTM A276, 3/4" Thickness, 6" Width, 48" Length

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Price: $491.81    

Product Feature

• 316 stainless steel provides better corrosion resistance than 304 stainless steel
• Unpolished (mill) surface has no finish
• Meets ASTM A276 specifications
• Standard tolerance

Product Description

The 316 stainless steel rectangular bar has an unpolished (mill) surface, meets American Society for Testing and Materials International ASTM A276 specifications, and has a standard tolerance. The 316 stainless steel grade provides better corrosion resistance than general-purpose 304 stainless steel, especially in marine environments, due to higher nickel content and the addition of molybdenum. An austenitic stainless steel, 316 is typically nonmagnetic and can be cold worked to increase its hardness and strength while maintaining most of its formability.

Stainless steel is an iron alloy with resistance to staining and rusting in many environments where steel would typically degrade. The chemical composition of each grade creates a grain structure that falls into one of five classes: austenitic, duplex, ferritic, martensitic, and precipitation hardening. The austenitic class contains the most formable, weldable, and corrosion-resistant stainless steel grades, but they cannot be heat treated. The duplex class offers high resistance to pitting and chloride stress corrosion cracking. Duplex grades are heat treatable and roughly twice as strong as austenitic grades. The ferritic class contains moderately formable and corrosion-resistant grades compared to other stainless steel classes, but they cannot be heat treated. The martensitic class includes some of the hardest and strongest stainless steel grades that also offer mild corrosion resistance, high hardness, and good formability. Martensitic grades can be heat treated. The precipitation-hardening (PH) class can be heat treated after fabrication to achieve some of the highest hardness ratings in stainless steel.

Tensile strength, used to indicate the material’s overall strength, is the peak stress it can withstand before it breaks. Corrosion resistance describes the material's ability to prevent deterioration caused by atmosphere, moisture, or other medium. Wear resistance indicates the ability to prevent surface damage caused by contact with other surfaces. Toughness describes the material's ability to absorb energy before breaking, while hardness (commonly measured as indentation hardness) describes its resistance to permanent surface deformation. Formability indicates how easily the material can be permanently shaped. Machinability describes how easily it can be cut, shaped, finished, or otherwise machined, while weldability characterizes the ability to be welded. Magnetism characterizes how much the material is repelled by or attracted to a magnet.

316 Stainless Steel Rectangular Bar, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Annealed, 0 (Annealed) Temper, ASTM A276, 3/4" Thickness, 6" Width, 48" Length Review

If you know what grade 316 stainless is and are familiar with its proffered and how to machine it,all I can say its they delivered what was promised without any problems: an unpolished rectangle/flat bar 1/4" thick, 1 1/2" wide, 12" long for a little over $13.00.

For background stainless steel 316 is one of the most corrosion resistant of all the common "austenitic" (any grade of stainless in the 300 range) stainless steels. It is sometimes called marine grade stainless because it resists corrosion even in the presence of saltwater. It is often called A4 stainless on metric sized fasteners.

If you plan on using this for a project requiring machining -- like drilling or milling -- keep a couple things in mind:

1) Don't even think about trying to drill without coolant. If you value your drill bits life, use LOTS of it, literally keep flooding the area with coolant from start to stop. If you don't have any real coolant, try regular olive oil.

2) You can drill this with high speed steel drill bits, but cobalt bits will last longer because this process generates heat that cobalt can deal with better than high speed steel. If possible use a drill with an angle around 135 and if you can use a shorter "screw machine" or "stub" length drill rather than the standard "jobber" length.

3) Drill a with lot slower rpm than you are used to for regular steel or (especially aluminum) and keep the pressure on. If you need to disengage from the cut, pull it back completely out of the hole immediately -- never let the drill just stay rotating in the hole without a good bit of pressure applied. It is much easier to do this on a drill press or mill than with a hand held drill because you can maintain pressure without flexing the bit (which can cause it to snap) more easily on a press.

4) Make sure your bits are SHARP. Don't even bother trying if your bit is the least bit dull or worn.

5) You can do this even if you've never machined/drilled a significant hole in a real metal before -- I first learned about metal cutting using Titanium 6al4v, which is a lot like this material as far as drilling / milling strategy goes. I never understood why people said it was so difficult to machine until later when I worked on mild steel and aluminum -- if you're used to those metals or try to machine this like it is those metals, you will likely be quite frustrated.

6) This product comes unfinished (scratchy). If you want it to look half decent, use a disc or belt sander, start at 80 grit and work your way up to 400 to 600. It should look pretty decent by then. If not, move on to buffing with buffing wheels and appropriate compounds.

I hope this provides a decent review of my transaction, plus what this stuff is used for and what to do with it so people can decide whether its appropriate for whatever project they're working on.

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